On this ride we visit some of London's most famous pubs.  14 miles, starting at Hyde Park Corner and ending at Russell Square.

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The route (opens in a new window)

Route starts at Hyde Park Corner

 

STOP: Star Tavern, Belgravia

LOCATION: Halkin Place

 

The Star Tavern in Belgravia has seen its share of well-heeled visitors – including Peter O’Toole, Diana Dors and Alexander Korda – since it was built in the early 19th century. However, it is most noted for its role in one of the most colourful – and notorious – episodes in 20th century England. The grand upstairs room was supposedly where the Great Train Robbers hatched their plan to attack the Mail service in 1963. Bruce Reynolds, the ringleader, would reportedly drive up from south-west London in an Aston Martin to flesh out the details of the £2.3m heist. Now, it’s a grand, welcoming place with a good selection of Fuller’s beers.

 

STOP: The Grenadier, Belgravia

LOCATION: Wilton Row

 

The Grenadier was originally built in 1720 as the officers' mess for the senior infantry regiment of the British army, the 1st Regiment of Foot Guards, and located in a courtyard of their barracks. It was opened to the public in 1818 as The Guardsman, and subsequently renamed in honour of the Grenadier Guards' actions in the Battle of Waterloo.

 

Being secluded in a wealthy district of London, it was frequented in the past by the Duke of Wellington and King George IV. More recent customers have included Madonna and Prince William. 

 

It is also said to be haunted by the ghost of a subaltern called Cedric who was beaten to death for cheating at cards. Although the year in which this happened is not known, the month is thought to have been September, as this is when the pub experiences an onslaught of supernatural activity.

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A solemn, silent spectre has been seen moving slowly across the low-ceilinged rooms. Objects either disappear or else are mysteriously moved overnight. Unseen hands rattle tables and chairs, and a strange, icy chill has been known to hang in the air, sometimes for days on end. Footsteps have been heard pacing anxiously around empty rooms, whilst every so often a low sighing moan has been heard emanating from the cellar. 

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On one occasion a Chief Superintendent from New Scotland Yard was enjoying a drink in the pub, when wisps of smoke began to waft around him. His curiosity aroused, he reached towards the apparent source of the smoke, and with a cry of pain, pulled his hand quickly back as an invisible cigarette burnt it.

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Tradition is to affix bank notes to the ceiling to pay off Cedric’s debt.

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In 2022, the pub was bought by Ineos, being the favourite pub of Jim Ratcliffe, the founder of Ineos. The Ineos Grenadier motor car, and in turn the Ineos Grenadiers cycling team, are named after it.

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STOP: The Sherlock Holmes

LOCATION: Northumberland Street, just off Northumberland Avenue

 

This pub is a long way from 221B Baker Street, Sherlock Holmes legendary address.  However, it does have an authentic recreation of Holmes’ study which was originally put together for the Festival of Britain in 1951. 

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The pub was built 1870 originally as a small hotel - The Northumberland Arms - which features in The Hound of the Baskervilles.

 

The Turkish bath that Holmes and Watson used was next door at number 25 and the entrance to women’s baths can still be seen in Craven Passage.

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It is probably the oldest ‘theme’ pub in London

 

STOP: Ship and Shovell, Charing Cross

LOCATION: Craven Passage, off Craven Street

 

This is a rather splendid Victorian pub.  Originally it was built as two terraced houses in 1731, but later re-faced to become the pub.  It is unique in that it consists of two separate buildings on either side of street.  One half is classical Victorian, all mirrors and shining brass, whereas the other half is nautical - wood panelling, ship’s timbers, crow’s nest bar above. The two buildings share a cellar.  It is Grade 2 listed.

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There is some dispute about the origins of the name.  One thought is that the name comes from coal labourers visiting from the nearby Coal Hole, and the other story is that it is named after Admiral Cloudesley Shovell.

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Shovell was Admiral of the Fleet during reign of Charles II.  He wasn't renowned so much for his military prowess, and his lasting fame has come from the nature of his death at the Scilly naval disaster of 1707.

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While returning with the fleet to England Shovell's flagship struck the rocks near the Isles of Scilly at 8 pm on 22 October 1707. HMS Association went down in three or four minutes, with none of the 800 men that were on board saved. Three other large ships also sank. With nearly 2,000 sailors lost that night, the Scilly naval disaster was recorded as one of the greatest maritime disasters in British history. 

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The cause of the disaster has often been represented as the navigators' inability to accurately calculate their longitude. 

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Shovell's body and those of both his stepsons were all found in Porthellick Cove on St Mary's, almost 7 miles from where his ship was wrecked. It was possible that Shovell left his flagship in one of its boats but drowned while trying to get to shore.

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Shovell's body was identified by a purser who knew the admiral well. It was identified by "a black mole under his left ear, also by the first joint of one of his forefingers being broken inwards. He had likewise a shot in his right arm, another in his left thigh". Shovell was temporarily buried on the beach at Porthellick Cove. However, by order of Queen Anne the body was later exhumed and brought back to London and he was interred in Westminster Abbey on 22 December 1707. 

 

STOP: The Black Friar

LOCATION: North end of Blackfriars Bridge

 

Built in 1875, the pub is fairly modern despite its medieval styling. But the name of the Black Friar refers to its position on the site of a former priory.

 

When friars first appeared in medieval England they were something of a novelty since unlike monks (who were cloistered in monasteries) they travelled around, spreading the word in exchange for money to sustain themselves. Nice work if you can get it.

 

There were two main groups of friars in early 13th century London – the Franciscans who were invariably dressed in grey, and the Dominicans whose long black mantles earned them the name the Black Friars. These were later joined by the Carmelites, or the White Friars and the Augustinians, otherwise known as the Austin Friars. 

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The pub is a Grade II listed Arts and Crafts building which means it has plenty of historical merit despite not actually being old. In the “enlightened” 1960s when iconic buildings were being flattened left right and centre, the Black Friar was among those scheduled to be demolished. However, the poet Sir John Betjeman stepped in and led a campaign to keep it.

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It as an extraordinary interior and it is well worth popping in for a pint.  The walls are covered in mosaics and reliefs of monks and friars - drinking of course.

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STOP: Doggetts

LOCATION: South end of Blackfriars Bridge, on the west side

 

This pub is the home of another London boat race which takes place each August and predates the Oxford v Cambridge boat race by 114 years.  It is the oldest rowing race in the world.

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Doggetts’ Coat and Badge race is contested between the Watermen (aka Wherrymen) and Lightermen companies - the traditional water taxis taking passengers and goods across the river.

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Thomas Doggett MP - an Irish actor, comedian  and manager of Drury Lane theatre - needed a lift home across the river one night in 1715 and only one waterman (a boy) volunteered.  From then on Dogged only ever used that boy and when asked said it was because he was the fittest and the fastest of the wherrymen.

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A wager was established that no-one could beat him from Swan Pier (London Bridge) to The Swan Pub (Chelsea), a distance of 4 miles, 5 furlongs.  The boy won and was given a new scarlett uniform as a prize.

 

A race between newly qualified watermen and lightermen has taken place every year since.

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There are no rules, but Fishmongers Company has set some regulations (they took oversight from the Waterman due to some cheating) - huge sums of money used to be bet and foul play was common.

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Contemporary sculling boats are used.  Originally they were four seater passenger wherries (which could take four hours to complete the course).  30 minutes is about the time taken now.

 

TOILETS AT FLAT IRON SQUARE

 

STOP: Boot and Flogger, Southwark

LOCATION: Redcross Way

 

Unique as originally this was the only UK premises allowed to sell alcohol without a licence - a dispensation confirmed by James I in 1611.

 

The original owner - John Davy - was a Freeman and member of worshipful company of Vintners, otherwise known as a Free Vintner.

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This gave Davy ‘vintners privilege’ which covered The City and three miles beyond.  Also, some towns on the road to Dover and the road to Berwick and one or two port towns.  The bars with vintners privilege may not sell beer or spirits.

 

The Vintners company has been in operation since at least 1321, although they didn't received the royal charter Vintners (from Elizabeth I) in 1567.

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Name of the pub refers to a corking method for early wine bottles.  The leather 'boot' holds the bottle whilst the cork is ‘flogged’ in.

 

STOP: The George Inn, Southwark

LOCATION: George Inn Yard, Borough High Street just before Borough Market

 

This pub is owned by The National Trust and is a tourist hot spot.  It is Grade 1 listed and is the last remaining galleried inn in London.

 

Another coaching inn - The White Hart - survives just north of here, but it’s not galleried.  There were dozens of these kinds of inn around London and particularly along Borough High Street as the gates onto London Bridge gates were at night and late arriving travellers needed somewhere to stay before they could get into The City the following morning.  Another was The Tabard (in Talbot Yard just south of here) from where in 1388 Chaucer began The Canterbury Tales. If you walk south from here you will spot many short yards, almost all of which would have led to an inn.

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There has been an inn here since medieval times. Originally called George and the Dragon this one is clearly marked on the very first map of Southwark, dating from 1543.  However, it was rebuilt in 1677 after a serious fire that destroyed most of medieval Southwark.

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These kinds of galleried inn are probably where the art of theatre began, where travelling players ‘performed to the gallery’. Originally there was a galleried north range of buildings, but two fronts were pulled down by Great Northern Railway to create warehousing during the time of rapid railway expansion.

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Dickens was a regular visitor here and The George features in Little Dorrit.

 

Inside it's a maze of rooms and galleries.  The parliament bar was the original passenger waiting room, and the middle bar the coffee room. All the bedrooms were upstairs.

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STOP: Kings Arms

LOCATION: Newcommen Street

 

Like many of the streets and alleys of Southwark, Newcommen Street developed from an inn yard, the yard of the Axe, later the Axe and Bottle.  The Axe is first mentioned in Southwark manor records of 1560.

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The most interesting thing about this pub is the coat of arms on the north wall.  

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This is a finely detailed piece of sculpture and you don't have to look too close to see that the lion and the unicorn are what, in the language of heraldry is known as 'pizzled', a quite common sight on coats of arms until the Victorians arrived and it became considered too rude to show beasts in such a state of 'excitement'.

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This coat of arms was added to Stonegate, at the southern end of Old London Bridge as part of some construction work in 1728. To enable road widening all the buildings on the bridge were demolished around 1760, including Stonegate, but this coat of arms was rescued and re-erected on the pub, of which the current building was erected in 1890. Either the pub was already called the "King's Arms" and wanted the coat of arms because it was a ready-made sign, or, they were so delighted with the acquisition that they renamed the pub in celebration.  

 

STOP: Thomas A Beckett (now Viet Quan Vietnamese restaurant)

LOCATION: Albany Road, junction with Old Kent Road

 

This building used to be the Thomas A Beckett pub - an iconic building on the Old Kent Road.  It was built in 1898, but has been a stopping point for travellers for centuries - indeed it is mentioned in Canterbury Tales as pilgrims passed here on their way to the shrine of Thomas A Beckett in Canterbury.

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It also has a place in boxing legends as the first floor gym was used by Henry Cooper (6 days a week for 14 years from 1956). And it has a blue plaque in recognition of this.  Mohammed Ali, Joe Frazier and Sugar Ray Leonard also trained here.   

The pub has some music heritage - second floor was the rehearsal space for Bowie’s 1972 seminal album Ziggy Stardust.

 

In the late 1970s and 1980s this pub was the one to avoid due to regular shootings amongst gangland clientele.

 

It sold in 2015 for around £2 million. Although no longer a pub, the Thomas A Becket pub sign still hangs outside.

 

This area was known as St Thomas a Watering - probably due to the stream and ford.  It was the place of execution for the northern parts of Surrey, include those in Marshalsea prison.   Last execution was 1740.

 

TOILETS AT LONDON BRIDGE STATION

 

STOP: Dirty Dicks, Liverpool Street

LOCATION: Gracechurch Street, junction with Middlesex Street (opposite Liverpool Street station)

 

This pub is named after Nathaniel Bentley (known as Richard, therefore Dick) who was an 18th century merchant and dandy.  Nathaniel owned a hardware shop and warehouse around the corner and is thought to be one of the inspirations for Dicken’s Miss Haversham (Great Expectations).

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After his wife (to be) died on their wedding day he never recovered.  He festered here in his own filth and dead cats and became something of a tourist attraction. Mail would be sent to The Dirty Warehouse, London. His business stopped trading in 1804. and Nathaniel died in 1809.

 

Inside the pub there is a glass display case with dead cats just to add some atmosphere.  It has been a pub for over 200 years, and was originally called The Old Jerusalem.   However the name was changed in the middle of the 19th century to capitalise on the Dirty Dick legend.

 

STOP: Bishops Finger

LOCATION: West Smithfield

 

A favourite local for Smithfield Market traders and customers, the pub is named after the popular strong ale produced by Shepherd Neame Brewery. 

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Bishops Finger has EU protected geographical indication and is one of the UK’s oldest bottled beers, in production since 1958. But the name itself goes back a lot further.

The Ruby-coloured Kent classic beer is named after the finger-shaped signs that pointed Medieval pilgrims in the right direction to Canterbury Cathedral where they’d find the shrine of Thomas Becket, the Archbishop of Canterbury martyred in 1170.

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The pub serves good pies.

 

STOP: The Viaduct

LOCATION: Giltspur Street / Holborn junction

 

This is one of the last surviving Victorian gin palaces in London characterised by mirrors, etched glass panels, and a series of large portraits representing agriculture, banking and the arts. It opened in 1869, the same year as the viaduct. 

It is opposite the site where Newgate Prison once stood and the often quoted story that its beer cellars are former cells of the prison is probably a myth.  The cellars are however, haunted.

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The Viaduct Tavern has likely been the venue for plenty of emotion and drama being situated a mere stone’s throw from the Central Criminal Court. No doubt the legal teams and family members of various wrong ‘uns have spent many an unhappy hour propping up the bar of the Viaduct during court recesses. And as it is the Old Bailey, those wrong ‘uns would have included the likes of Doctor Crippen, the Yorkshire Ripper, the Kray twins and Ruth Ellis.

But the Old Bailey also echoes with untold anguish and sorrow from its previous incarnation. It is built on the site of Newgate Prison, one of England’s most notorious lock-ups. It remained in operation as a gaol for more than 700 years and inmates included Captain Kidd, Casanova, Daniel Defoe and Quaker William Penn, who was found to be in contempt of court for failing to remove his Quakery hat in the dock. 

The Viaduct Tavern was fully operational in Victorian days when Newgate’s prisoners included Oscar Wilde. The pub was also in operation when the last public hanging took place outside Newgate Prison in 1868. Those bloodthirsty Victorians loved a good hanging and would swarm out in their droves to watch a member of the convicted breathe their last. But after one undignified stampede too many, this spectacle was moved indoors.

 

STOP: Ye Old Mitre

LOCATION: Ely Court, off Ely Place (down an alleyway, so hard to find)

 

Ely Place is a corner of Old London that will be forever Cambridgeshire.  It was once the home to Bishops of Ely, and until late 1950s, the lodges were occupied by Cambridgeshire police and the publican had to go to Cambridge for the licence. Indeed there is an urban myth was that criminals would be out of reach here from the Met or City of London police in Ely Place.  I think that is unlikely.

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It's a very old pub indeed. Originally built in 1546, it was remodelled between 1773 and 1782 and internally remodelled in 1930s. Nevertheless, parts of the pub pre-date the Great Fire.

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The surrounding area was owned by Sir Christopher Hatton and it is known that Elizabeth I danced round a cherry tree in Sir Christopher garden (the tree is still here).  In fiction, Shakespeare’s John of Gaunt makes his famous speech here. And a scene from Guy Richie’s film Snatch was shot here.

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It is often touted as the hardest pub in London to find, but I guess that depends on how much you've had to drink.

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STOP: Ye Old Cheshire Cheese

LOCATION: Fleet Street, opposite Whitefriars Street

 

Ye Old Cheshire Cheese is a Fleet Street landmark and is one of the oldest pubs ion the City.  It dates from 1538, but was re-built shortly after Great Fire and has been largely unchanged since then. Not surprisingly it is Grade II listed.

 

It has many literary connections, including Dickens, Chesterton, Mark Twain and P.G. Wodehouse. In fact, Poirot dined here in 1924 (Million Dollar Bond Robbery book).

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There is a curious lack of natural lighting which makes the place very atmospheric and you can get a real sense of what ale houses would have been like centuries ago.  Some of the wood panelling is 19th century, but some may be original

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A 1680 ballad called A New Ballad of the Midwives Ghost tells a fantastical story of how a midwife haunted the house where she died until she was able to induce the new residents there to dig up the bones of some bastard children she had made away with and buried there. The final lines of the ballad insist upon the veracity of the tale and even that the children's bones may be seen for proof displayed at the Cheshire Cheese. I suspect they're no longer on display in the pub if indeed they ever were.

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Polly the parrot lived here for 40 years and when he (yes, it was a male called Polly) died in 1926 its obituary was carried in 200 newspapers.  It was a local attraction, primarily because of its fruity language.

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In 1962, the pub gave the Museum of London a number of sexually explicit plaster of Paris tiles recovered from an upper room, suggesting the room may have been an 18th century brothel.

 

STOP: The Seven Stars

LOCATION: Carey Street, opposite the old phone boxes

 

This is another very old pub, dating from 1602 in the penultimate year of Elizabeth 1s reign. The most telling sign of the pub's late Elizabethan date is the characteristic historical formation of the narrow and steep stair with winder treads, from the bar to the first floor, and jointed timber connections rather than nails.  The Seven Stars survived the Great Fire, but most of this building is more likely 1680s. It is Grade II listed. It also escaped demolition when they built Kingsway and Alwych (west) and Royal Courts of Justice (south).   

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The pub is in the parish of St Clement Danes which has Viking associations.  In fact a few yards to the east of the pub you will see a very very old parish boundary marker, one of very few originals left in the city.  

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The pub backs onto Lincoln’s Inn which has been here since at least the 15th century (records go back to 1422).  The location of the Inns of Court stems from a decree made by Henry III in 1234 that legal institutes could not reside within the city walls. Many of the pub's clientele will be from the legal profession.

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The pub name is believed to have derived from the "The League of Seven Stars" - referring to the seven provinces of the Netherlands, and was thought to have at one time been called "The Leg and Seven Stars”. The Dutch connection is reputed to stem from a time when this area was used as a port (the nearby, and now covered, River Fleet was once navigable), and Dutch sailors were said to have settled close by. 

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The pub cat is well known in the area for wearing a ruff (a frilly collar).

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The ride ends at the cafe in Russell Square